A Naples, New York vineyard offers beautiful views of Canandaigua Lake and the Naples Valley.

The North American wine industry began in earnest on the eastern seaboard and throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, New York State dominated production with hybrid varieties like Concord. However, it wasn’t really until the 1960s and 1970s that true vinifera vines began to make their mark when pioneers started producing commercial quantities from international grapes. Three quite distinct regions, Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley and Long Island, have since emerged as serious producers of wine.

In the bucolic but cool Fingers Lakes region winemaking is only possible because the effects of climate are tempered by long, thin glacial fingers of water that run north to south though the shale soils. Here, as you’d expect, aromatic whites like Riesling show a racy, minerally character and Chardonnay can also produce crisp, fresh wines showing subtle fruit. Ripening reds is more difficult, but delicate Pinot Noirs and perky Cabernet Francs can excel, as can Merlot in warmer years.

Heading southeast, towards New York City, the Hudson River claims the longest unbroken tradition of producing wine in the US. With its milder climate, and a more recent influx of modern thinking winemakers, it has been quietly turning out some of the most notable Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs in the state.

New York state’s third and newest wine area of note is Long Island, which has risen in a few short years to become a serious source of good wine. While New York socialites party in the Hamptons, the more prosaic farmland of North Fork has proved a good home to a growing number of wineries. The vines benefit from a mild maritime-influenced growing season, surrounded by water on three sides, and the wines find a ready market in the restaurants and bars of New York City. Chardonnay can be outstanding here, and Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon also ripen well to deliver well-structured, food friendly wines. Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling, sometimes as a late-harvest sweet wine, complete the rollcall of main varieties.

By its very nature, Long Island will always remain a region of small producers aiming at quality wines and it is already fair to say that it has made its mark as New England’s most exciting new area for wines.  [ top ]