The WSJwine Annual Dozen 2009

Top judges reveal America's 12 best wine buys.


The Event

  • The challenge. With hundreds of samples to open, it was all hands on deck. Wines were tasted ‘blind’ (labels covered) to ensure impartiality.
  • The brief. Winning wines had to deliver massively on class and flavor in the glass — and over-deliver on value for money.
  • The experts. Led by the world’s bestselling (and most respected) wine authority, Hugh Johnson. “What a tasting!” was his review of the day.
  • The winemakers. Stars like Christian Roguenant, whose entry prompted judge Paul Lukacs to write “the best-kept secret in American wine.”
  • The reveal. The judging panel was very excited to discover the triumphant wines — and each desperate to get hold of a case themselves.
  • And the winner is ... WSJwine customers. Enjoy America’s dozen best wine buys — delivered direct to their door.

The Judges

Hugh Johnson

Hugh Johnson — world’s best-selling wine writer and most widely respected authority.

Paul Lukacs

Paul Lukacs — editor of US Saveur Magazine and author of The Great Wines of America.

Joris Beijn

Joris Beijn — First Class Sommelier, just short-listed for Sommelier of the Year 2009.

Adrian Bentham

Adrian Bentham — WSJwine Cellar Director with over 25 years wine trade experience.

Nick Taylor

Nick Taylor — WSJwine Head Buyer, Chevalier du Tastevin, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir fanatic.

Abigail Hirshfeld

Abigail Hirshfeld — Award winning wine buyer. Senior Judge, International Wine Challenge.

The Winners

“Grown up, complex” (HJ) Napa Cabernet

The Fuse team add Syrah to their Cabernet for extra flavor complexity (just as top Bordeaux châteaux of the 19th century did). Then 16 months in fine oak. Spicy red berry nose, lush plum and vanilla palate. Rich, dense, velvety — blew the judges away! 14.1% Vol. To 2016. Fuse Cabernet 2006, Napa Valley

“Very appealing, silky” (PL) Oregon Pinot

Feels like most of Burgundy has set up shop in McMinnville, Oregon — Rob Stuart has made satin-textured Pinot Noir here for decades. Long raspberry flavor. 13.5% Vol. To 2016. Big Fire Pinot Noir 2007, Oregon

Golden Chardonnay to knock you Sideways

Father-and-son winemakers Dave and Eric Hickey have seen sales rocket since the film Sideways put their valley firmly on the fine wine map. “Ripe golden grapes, tight acidity, intense length, vital” wrote Hugh of this double Gold-medal winner. 14.1% Vol. To 2012. Laetitia Estate Chardonnay 2007, Arroyo Grande Valley

Grand Cru Washington Syrah

The McClellan family were one of the first to plant Walla Walla, in 1982 — now one of the state’s grand cru Syrah sites. Deep black cherry/pepper/vanilla red. “Pure class” (HJ). 13.5% Vol. To 2013. Seven Hills Syrah 2006, Walla Walla

“The best-kept secret in American wine” (PL)

Paul Lukacs is clearly a big fan of West Coast Pinot Gris — and loved Tangent “full-bodied but fresh and lively wine, with compelling pear and melon flavors”. 13.5% Vol. To 2011. Tangent Pinot Gris 2007, Edna Valley

“Saint-Emilion style” (HJ) Sonoma red

Chip Lyeth is a pioneer of the ‘Meritage’ red — a complex blend of Cabernet with other Bordeaux grapes. To be likened to Saint-Emilion — by the world’s top wine writer — is the highest honor. Lush, ripe blackberry fruit, sweet oak, great length. 13.5% Vol. To 2014. Lyeth Meritage 2006, Sonoma County

California’s BEST Zinfandel — officially

Soon after placing in the Annual Dozen, the family saw their 2007 voted California’s top Zin at the 2009 Lodi Wine Show (no mean feat in Lodi, the center of great Zin). From John Van Ruiten’s original 50-year-old plantings. Blueberry, coffee, cedar and more. 14.1% Vol. To 2016. Van Ruiten Old Vine Zinfandel 2007, Lodi

Sonoma Cabernet from a great name

Bill spent decades making names for other people’s wineries (Chalk Hill, Saintsbury). His name guarantees quality. “Ripe, complex, smooth, will keep” (HJ). 13.9% Vol. To 2015. William Knuttel Cabernet 2006, Sonoma County

Multi-Gold medal Napa Sauvignon

Four Golds (and counting) for this supremely refreshing, lime- and grapefruit-charged Sauvignon. From Wine and Spirit Mag’s 2008 Winery of the Year. 13.5% Vol. To 2011. St Supéry Sauvignon Blanc 2007, Napa Valley

“Creamy vanilla” (HJ) Napa Chardonnay

“There are times when nothing tastes better than a Napa Chardonnay” says Laura — and a single sip of her 2007 proves the point deliciously. Fine French oak lends the creamy vanilla notes that seduced Hugh. A clever dash of Sauvignon adds freshness. 14.6% Vol. To 2012. Laura Zahtila Chardonnay 2007, Napa Valley

Super-charged ‘California Chianti’

Rare California take on the great grape of Chianti — from the madly talented Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon. “In-your-face cherries, intense, very good” wrote Hugh Johnson. Randall (the Willy Wonka of wine) suggests spicy BBQ ribs. Why argue? 14.2% Vol. To 2012. Ca’ del Solo Sangiovese 2006, San Benito County

Powerfully pure Pinot Noir

Ex-firefighter Paul Clifton now sets the world alight with the sumptuous, full-flavored Pinot Noir he produces in Monterey’s cool Santa Lucia Highlands. So rich, so velvety. 14.5% Vol. To 2012. Cooper Point Pinot 2007, Monterey

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